Vitriol d’œillet Serge Lutens for women and men

Vitriol d’œillet Serge Lutens for women and men

main accords
warm spicy
fresh spicy
floral
soft spicy
white floral

Perfume rating 3.87 out of 5 with 1,178 votes

Vitriol d’œillet by Serge Lutens is a Amber Spicy fragrance for women and men. Vitriol d’œillet was launched in 2011.

Read about this perfume in other languages: Deutsch, Español, Français, Čeština, Italiano, Русский, Polski, Português, Ελληνικά, 汉语, Nederlands, Srpski, Română, العربية, Українська, Монгол, עברית.

Pros

Pros

9
0
Unique and spicy carnation scent
7
0
Powdery, cloves, spices, and carnation notes
6
0
Good longevity
5
0
Suitable for mature and wintery season
5
0
Can imagine Oscar Wilde wearing it
4
0
Good for those who like old-fashioned scents
4
1
Unisex fragrance
4
1
Divine and unearthly pure
Cons

Cons

7
0
Not suitable for blind buy
3
0
May be too peppery for some people
3
2
May take a while to develop into the desired scent
2
1
May have a sour and syrupy odour after a while
1
0
May not work well on some people's skin chemistry
2
3
May not smell like actual carnations
1
3
May have funeral associations due to lily notes
0
5
May smell like wood smoke and salami on some people

Note: The pros and cons listed on this page have been generated using the artificial intelligence system, which analyzes product reviews submitted by our members. While we strive to provide accurate and helpful information, we cannot guarantee the complete accuracy or reliability of the AI-generated pros and cons. Please read the full reviews and consider your own needs and preferences before making a purchasing decision.

Fragram Photos

Fragrance Notes


Carnation
Clove
Pepper
Pink Pepper
Nutmeg
Lily
Paprika
Ylang-Ylang
Wallflower

Fragrantica® Trends is a relative value that shows the interest of Fragrantica members in this fragrance over time.

Vitriol d’œillet News
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For the Love of Spice!

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09/17/17 00:32
53
Carner Barcelona: Experimenting in Black and White

Carner Barcelona: Experimenting in Black and White

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5
Best in Show: Welcome Spring! (2017)

Best in Show: Welcome Spring! (2017)

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03/19/17 18:51
48

Perfume longevity:3.41 out of5.

Perfume sillage:2.44 out of4.

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All Reviews By Date

rainfortheend

I must be the only one who thinks this is masc-of-center. To me it feels cologney. A bit Old Spice-y with a sophisticated barbershop feel-- it's vintage. Darker, too, and sexy. Sillage is more intimate. After a few hours it lightens up into a bit more feminine purple haze -- sensual, sophisticated patchouli under sweet spices and smoky incense-- and I'm into it, even though I'm normally not into patchouli.

algebraist

The top note is reminiscent of the slightly vinegary, woody top note of 100% beta ionone and is immediately spicy but not entirely clove. It is slightly camphorous and there is a cosmetic muguet aspect, especially on skin. It is not an entirely literal interpretation of carnation.

L8eenL8

While on the search for my perfect carnation scent, everyone in the perfume community told me more or less the same: "Oh, carnation is an outdated and difficult note''. Everything I tried lacked the real essence of carnations and offended my nose with the misrepresentation of a beautiful flower that meant so much to me.
Carnations, at least those in my country, emit a velvety, spicy, aromatic scent and feel. They are soft and powdery, while a tad bit spicy -- like someone who has a strong character but expresses themselves in a soft-spoken manner. In Bulgaria, they are used as tribute flowers, mostly seen at funerals or memorial services. I never understood it, as their scent is too special to be off limits for the living.
Vitriol d'oeillet is purely the most perfect carnation scent, everything I ever imagined it to be. It's powdery, milky, spicy, sweet, and velvety in all the right amounts.
Another fun fact is that in Bulgarian, the word for 'carnation' and 'cloves' is the same - karamfil. Maybe this is why I've always thought one can't go without the other and I'm soo glad to see them together in what is now one of my most beloved perfumes.
Sadly it's discontinued, but my destiny seems to be being a passionate chaser of extremely expensive, discontinued fragrances.

jelesveuxperpétuer

I'm baffled by the reviews. "Clove"? "Spicy"? "Salami"? How do I access these bizarre interpretations? Vitriol d’œillet smells like violets to me. I love violets. Perhaps the spicy notes are being overpowered by the Ylang Ylang, a note I find impossible to see around.

An hour or two later—carrot. Then, nothing.

Autumn_Moon

There's something about this that attracts me... perhaps it's the use of carnation (which is unusual in today's perfumery). That alone is enough to pique my interest, as I love carnations, and feel that they are underutilized in perfumery.

What I get when I experience this perfume, however, is something of a study in contrasts. First, it wants to be a spicy carnation, with hints of clove and pepper. Then, it wants to be a waxy, pollen-laden white lily in full bloom. (It's not quite a funereal lily, as I experienced in Demeter's Funeral Home; rather, this is a lily *before* its journey to the funeral home -- full of hope and promise, not knowing its eventual destination.) I fully appreciate both phases. Both the carnation and the lily are fresh flowers... recently picked. However... on my skin, it's unpredictable. I'm not quite sure whether the carnation or the lily will shine at any given moment. (When I'm alone, that's fine, and I don't care... but it's something to consider if I'm planning to wear this in public and/or hoping to achieve a specific goal with my fragrance.)

There is something in the name -- the idea of an "angry carnation" -- that appeals to me on a visceral level. An angry, under-appreciated carnation, fighting for its place in the perfume world? Yes, indeed, I can picture that. I can root for the underdog.

The drydown, on me, is quiet and beautiful -- not quite lily, not quite carnation, but something in-between.

It's a study in contrasts, and I find myself enjoying every moment of it...

Natashaps01

Smells like my mother before going out in 1985. I was an 9 yo child in USSR… she was sophisticated and all dressed up ❤️

Mistress Eva

The top notes are clearly dominated by richly textured carnation and clove. The peppers are prominent supporting notes. The lily, also notable, creates a dramatic contrast with the prickly spices and carnation, giving it a tender, translucent, smooth undertone. The layers in this composition contrast and balance in a way that I had never before encountered when I discovered this fascinating scent.

It is a strong like– a fine bit of art indeed– though it elicits compliments and confusion from others in equal measure.

brokesta911

Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet (2011) - spicy carnation - This is such a calming scent created by #christophersheldrake yet full of depth. Carnations with their spicy and clove-like heart is mixed with aromatic Black and Pink pepper, Nutmeg and Cloves. This incense-like opening doesn’t smell smokey thought, but crisp and well-constructed. There are other florals I’m getting to smell, woods and white musks - but the spicy carnation is the star of the show. It reminds me of #guerlainlui which is also a favorite.

alphairone

A meditative mood runs through this like melting snow in a cool stream. A Sheldrake interpretation of carnation, imbued with his signature spice accord and flair for rich texture, Vitriol d'Oeillet blooms on my skin. I am reminded of the ephemerals of early Spring, the snowdrops, crocuses, scilla, hugging the ground with their melancholy hues, the first to burst into color before the winter thaw is complete.

In its heart, I am reminded of the scent of Easter lilies, sweet, almost fatty, voluptuous blooms, but from a few meters away, their ambience, while there are undertones of ylang ylang supporting this accord. Ylang Ylang also happens to be indispensable in any carnation accord, appearing in classic Poucher and Gattefosse bases. Here it's highlighted just enough to earn its own solo in the development.

After all the spices and florals fade, what is left is a calming violet-scent soap and smooth musk, leaving me somewhat transfixed. Quietly sublime.

RainbowGirl

This is deep in your soul amazing. Spicy carnation, spicy pepper, spicy spices! With this beautiful lightly soapy lily aura of awesome. It sounds so weird, but it is beautiful, delightful, and gives me all the happy smells.

jaguarundina

I bought a full flacon of this perfume along with Tubéreuse Criminelle. I remember I found them both unusual, and with 'Vitriol' the first thing that captured me was its fatty scent, below some reviewers speak of 'creamy cold' and 'campherous Lily' and 'syrupy' with nutmeg. that is exactly what I smelled and I felt rightaway that this perfume needed some time. it was even more 'shocking' than Tubéreuse. there the minty, camphorous, almost eucalyptus bytone of the tubereuse was evident. and then than here: the œillets given an extra density with that fatty scent, to me these both extrapolated indoles somewhat like J.A.R.-perfumes. these 2 are still some of my favorites. with 'Arabie'.

Smellslikequeenspirit

Soapy and softly spicy. I bought a sample of this to see if it could replace the discontinued Lys Carmin by VCA. A few minutes after the opening, I can smell similarities but the two are quite different overall. I smell sugared violets moreso than carnation, bathed in spices. The soapy notes become more apparent as it dries down - it also becomes a skin scent at this stage.
That soapiness gives the fragrance it’s reported cold effect, combined with the spices, its rep for moodiness. Lys Carmin is more powerful, warmer and sensual. Vitriol d’œillet Is an interesting fragrance but not a candidate to replace Lys Carmin (unfortunately for me).

lovetribe

metallic, cold, meditative, not too sad, not too clove, but very bright and vivid, almost soapy carnation. lily present but not funereal. clear the smell of ylang ylang similar to banana, a little nutmeg mixed with various types of pepper and chilli.
it moves more on the feminine side.
becomes soapy.
nice but I wouldn't buy a full bottle.
excellent performance.
6.5 / 10

gtabasso

Sometimes I feel like this is just okay and sometimes I like it. It is cold metallic Serge DNA. On first wearing I said modern spicy oriental. Then I wore more and would say the top is sharp with something like licorice or anise. When it dries down there is a spicy carnation (not as wonderful as vintage fragrances) with a slight powder as if there is some violet there. This is very soft and close. Not a powerhouse. Not worth the price at retail.

Singabera

First of all it's a creamy cold fragrance to me, reminding me the smell of white plombière, not sweet but extra rounded, soft and complex. No specific note protrudes from the composition, it's sober, sophisticated, distancing.
It definitely has old Lutens vibe, so fans would not be disappointed.
It's not ground breaking or extra original, just beautiful quality perfume.

Joys of life

Nutmeg, Camphorous Lily, and Cloves, with a backing of powdery musk and something syrupy that reads aquatic to my nose. The musk in this reminds me of Narciso white cube, quite assertive and thick.

Reads unisex as it balances these varied ingredients well. Sprayed this before bed and could still smell it as a skin scent the next morning, so excellent performance.

Does the carnation note resemble the way real carnations smell? Because this doesn't remind me of those flowers at all, I just get tons of Lily.

furryfleaae

Oh my! I immediately fall in love with this scent. The opening is what I would say a Serge Lutens spice DNA and I love it so much.
Bombs of clove and peppers with soft powdery floral scent, so well-blended and light (compairing to most spicy perfumes out there). The scent turns more powdery after an hour or two, but the spice is still detectable in the background.
The sillage is poor on my skin but that’s why it’s so charming. You have to come close to find the mystery in it.

lilacteeth

My initial take on this was rather dismal so I am so glad I tried it again. Now I love it so that I can’t believe I was sitting on this treasure. Alas, I used this in the wrong season. The season for this perfume is in that liminal space between summer and autumn. It revealed itself to me on a rainy day...which reminded me of when I fell in love with Mitsouko and the perfume opened up to me on such a similar day. If Fille de Berlin is Luten’s peppery powdered rose bomb then this is his peppery powdered carnation bomb.
I have to agree with Nicronomicon that this is a confusing little number to say the least - a moody one. In certain moments I get the bombastic carnation and clove of the classic original Opium. In other moments I get something reserved and studious - in another moment it is so inviting and optimistic. I even got slight skanky indols at one point (the lily perhaps?) The vitriol is the dichotomy of these incongruities - the grandiosity, the depression, the passion, the utter self containment.

I get this one. I love every mood of this one. Wear this beauty on a quiet, autumnal rainy day and see what I mean.

Practical considerations - this is indeed powdery on my skin but not overbearingly so in my opinion. If that’s not your thing, be warned.

Ovaltine Jenkins

A like but not a love. I love the clove note but not so much the carnation. This is not your typical floral scent and I would suggest sampling before buying a full bottle.

Nicronomicon

This should have been named Schizophrenia of the Carnation (that sounds familiar...I may not be the first person to say that...shout out to whomever said it first). I dabbed this on yesterday morning and immediately smelled a very spicy rose scent (I'm going to say that is the carnation) which quickly morphed into cloves...not the bitter dense cloves from the cupboard, but more of a clove with sweetness underneath, almost like a clove cigarette but without the smokiness. Love it. A while later, maybe an hour, I could smell the carnation coming forward again, in a bed of something white...ahh this is the soapy rose scent that people talk about. Not a fan. Oh well. Two hours later, I couldn't smell it anymore. Disappointing! Since it was already gone I decided it wasn't long-lasting, put in the sprayer, and this time sprayed my wrists, my chest, and my lower back. Huh. Where are the cloves? Now I get spicy floral...maybe that's a hint of clove underneath. A while later the soapy floral is back...this time a different flower but I can't pinpoint what it is. Ok, just floral. A couple hours later I still have moody florals peeking up but it's only a skin scent. The parts of my shirt that caught the spray still smell like a soapy flower. I don't like soapy flower smells I've decided. So, I spray my wrists only. I want clove, damnit. Ahh...rewarded. Here are the cloves, though less prominent that the first wearing. That was early afternoon yesterday. For the rest of the day and yesterday evening, this manic frag jumped from note to note to note, so quickly my wrist would smell different every time I caught a whiff of my wrists, or every time I'd put my nose to my skin. Why did I think this was short-lived? The soapy rose kept coming around, but so quickly did her mood change that it was gone too quickly to bother me. This (very very early) morning, 12 hours after the final spritz on my wrists, I can still smell a faint spiciness on my skin. When I duck my head into my shirt, I can still smell faint spiciness wafting up from my chest. So I guess the key to co-habitation with this pixie is this - if you don't like the way it smells the first time, wait a couple of hours and try again, because you will get something different. I realize this review is all over the place, but then again, so is this frag. I don't know if it is love, but it is a solid like and a baffled respect.

pozimhoff

A spicy floral oriental that is perfect for end of summer to early Fall. Beautiful clean soapy dry down but not particularly long lasting. Very pleasant but not earth shaking. Grab a bottle if you can get it well discounted..under $80.

cherubi rubi

57th
Love the opening but then it quickly becomes kind of weak...

It’s ethereal, close to the skin, fresh, tangy, gently fruity, light clove, some other spices and touch of sweetness. I also get a cosmetic smell mingling within, maybe lotion, maybe shampoo.

I wish it was stronger all around, because I like it a lot. But I sprayed 2.5-ml of my decant on a tank top and went from wow to quickly disappointing, fading fast into a synthetic-like smell. Smelled great and longest in my hair.

It’s along the lines of Carnation Ineke and Sweet William Carner Barcelona yet with its own twist, while these two I find weak too and also more dry, tart, without sweetness. I am also reminded a little bit of a very watered down Fendi Asja in some aspects, maybe similar fruit and spice vibe. It's a descent carnation interpretation just for its uniqueness. I am not completely sure on this one yet, as I hate the idea of soaking clothing with it so that it actually projects more, but I do like its composition.

This should be called an EDT or cologne. 7.5/10

courant

Saves the best until last, carnation heaven. The initial spray is 'Raid' and I thought 'What fresh madness is this?" but it softens and becomes spicy for a few minutes. I had an early bottle of Opium when it was first released and the eugenol was a bomb, but the cinnamon was strong too. (as was Cinnabar) This is nothing like that, much more floral. It's an acquired taste, to my liking as I am so familiar with big fragrances of the 60s, 70s and 80s. It won't find favour with those with more recent perfume exposure. I am reaching for it quite frequently for that lovely dry down, it lasts for hours.

Pbags

I love this - I just received an older bottle of it (original brown label) - reminds me very much of Frederic Malle's Noire Epices - with a floral burst. A spicy little number ...

m.ali.b1996

A peppery carnation with cloves and paprika
The opening is so spicy but it's not too warm like Opium YSL.
I can feel cloves from beginning to end and paprika makes perfume more spicy.
Finally the soapy floral notes like carnation and lily make the scent softer and lighter and we have a sharp soapy floral aroma to the end.
.
در تولیدات سال های اخیر کمتر کاری با رایحه برجسته گل میخک میشه پیدا کرد که ویتریُل دُیِل یکی از اون هاست .
عطر از ادویه هایی مثل میخک صدپر (ادویه میخک) ، فلفل سیاه، فلفل پاپریکا و جوز هندی در کنار خود گل میخک که تیزی ادویه مانند مشترکی با میخک صدپر داره تشکیل شده.
مسلما تجمع این همه ادویه نتیجه ی گزنده و تیزی داره.
اما ...
این گزندگی با کمک روایح گلی صابونی تلطیف شده و از حرارت عطر بدینوسیله کاسته شده. پس کارهای ادویه ای سوزانی مثل اوپیوم رو تصور نکنید. .
.
رایحه ی عطر در شروع تند و شیرین با رگه هایی از تیزیِ نعنا ماننده اما خب نه مثل نعنا سبز و تلخ. بوییدنش در این لحظات به من حس استارت جویدن آدامس های نعنا اکالیپتوس قوی رو میده که تمام حفره های گرفته ی سرتون رو باز میکنن!
این حس نتیجه ی خودنمایی بی محابا و لخت میخک صدپر در آغاز عطره که رایحش از طرفی برای من کمی حس میوه های شیرین خشک شده مثل هلو و زردالو هم داره. میخک صدپر تا پایان کار حضور شاخص داره و سایر ادویه جات هم گزندگی و معطر بودنش رو بیشتر میکنن. .
.
از طرفی میتونم رایحه عطر رو در شروع کار به یک سری پمادهای التیام بخش یا رنگ و اکسیدان مو تشبیه کنم. همون طور تیز و الکلی و کمی شیرین با بوی کرم/لاک مانند پلاستیکیشون.
.
محسوس ترین ادویه های عطر به شامه ی من میخک صدپر، پاپریکا با تندی فلفل دلمه ای مانند و شیرینش که بوییدنش مثل بوییدن خاک حس گرفتگی خفیفی رو هم در سینه ایجاد میکنه در کنار جوز هندی که اون هم شیرینی چوبی به کار القا میکنه هستن.
.
به مرور وقتش میرسه که ادویه های تند و سرکش در بستری نرم و لطیف از گلها آرام بگیرن و گل میخک به همراه گل هایی مثل لیلی با حس کرمی صابونیشون گزندگی رایحه رو کاهش بدن.
ترکیبی که ازینجا تا آخر کار مارو همراهی میکنه.
میخک صدپر، پاپریکا و عطر لطیف و صابونی گلها.
.
رایحه ی ویتریُل دُیل شاید برخلاف سال تولیدش گرایش به کلاسیک بودن داشته باشه. این بخاطر وجود گل میخک برجسته هست که سالهاست خیلی افتخار حضور پررنگ درعطرها رو نمیده و بعنوان یه رایحه قدیمی در اذهان ثبت شده.

Austrian_in_Denmark

Very impressive! This one packs a punch. I did not get the carnation, but boy did I get the cloves.
Too strong on my skin, though - which often turns scents more sour and harsh than they are on other people.
Perfect for a spice-lover whose skin eats perfumes.

Aeiris81

Omg I have just received this and it smells so amazing, so well rounded, a bit pungent but gorgeous nonetheless. I can smell the carnation and pepper and the clove...so so beautiful, it makes me happy. A new favorite from SL.

Emorandeira

I really like this carnation based parfum. I feel a very spicy carnation. The performance, as It happens witb most serge lutens on my skin, is only moderate, but this is a very different and original perfume, i havent smelt something similar before. It has a good place on my collection because is the first carnation perfume i own. Unisex and better with warm weather. Spicy and dry floral.

Scent: 8
Longevity: 8
Sillage: 6
Quality/price: 10 (i found It for 20€/50ml)
Versatility: 8
Originality: 9
Global: 8.5

cocofluff

+ Divine! Soft, powdery, cloves, spices, and carnation. I don't smell much paprika but I do detect nutmeg on subsequent wearings. Definitely unique. I like this much better than L'Artisan Oeillet Sauvage.

Granted they are aspiring for totally different vibes. L'AOS is aiming for a youthful/fresh, baby-doll take on carnation whereas SL VdO is dark, mature, spicy, and wintery. I LOVE VdO!

Like someone said below this perfume smells similar to Prada Infusion d'Oeillet!

EDIT - My partner says this smells like a friendly grandmother. Just bought my first Serge Lutens full bottle and it is this beautiful fragrance! <3

Andy the Frenchy

Pure carnation+cloves. A beautiful masculine spicy floral.

I'm not in love with cloves but I love SL Serge Noire. I don't really like carnation as it's a prominent note of old-school fragrances (together with oakmoss, for which I don't regret the ban). But here, it is a pure work of art. Intoxicating. Projection is good in the first hour, then becomes moderate.

Opens with carnation and a strong supporting nutmeg, and much later (4 hours in) slowly morphs into a Serge Noire-like cloves drydown with a hint of tobacco flower and spices.

A successful modern take on an old-school note. Thank you Serge (and Chris)!

Masculine, Spring/Fall days, 30+

pois

This a very interesting perfume. Quite different from the carnation note perfumes of old.. But still quite not what I expected.

It is at heart a spicy perfume, I get predominantly cloves with a surprising note of nutmeg and pink pepper, and just some carnation and wallflower to anchor it. I get a strong surprising note of banana which is probably the ylang-ylang at the start, but there is almost an impression of banana chewing gum for a bit.

If you love cloves, this has a wonderful drydown. If you are looking for a fresh flower like scent, this is not it (but try Oeillet Sauvage instead).

Pianomelody

An enveloping scent, very autumnal and a little melancholy. I have heard many fragrances by Serge Lutens, and I can say that his perfumes involve me, especially in the drydown... they are very beautiful and mysterious, Vitriol D'Oeillet is a beautiful perfume,complex but it needs some time for noted. I really like

Sillage: 7.5/10
Longevity: 8.5/10
Scent: 8.5/10

Overall: 8.5/10

evapap181977

i really liked it!i dont feel it as spicy as many reviewers suggest.soft woody carnation on my skin with a tiny hint of pepper.rather delicate smell.not harsh at all.sexy but melancholic in the same time.EDIT.became an addiction!i ve read a review below saying its now ruined so im wearing the reformulation.but the review made me curious so i ll try to find an older edition

adice

I'm in the this smells good but is WAY too masculine for me to feel comfortable wearing it camp. I also think this smells quite a lot like Prada Infusion d'Oeillet.

Anyone looking for a much more feminine carnation (sans all the freakin' in-your-face peppery-ness) might like to check out L'Artisan Parfumeur Oeillet Sauvage.

giuseppe98gp83

Literally changed fragrance. Now it's annoying and sour. I had several bottles. Another ruined perfume. I DO NOT LIKE IT ANYMORE'!
R.I.P

trabuquera

Perfect carnation: I'm not even a big florals fan, but this is one bloom I'd happily wear all over ("carnation - it's not just for buttonholes!"), and at any time.

One of the better Lutens floral scents IMO, which finds a really original and harmonious way to mesh flowery and spice notes together without letting them clash. Overall it's very much cooler, fresher and greener than you might expect from looking at the pictures above.

In the beginning I almost thought I was smelling something else altogether, because at first burst it's a powerfully fresh, green, sappy, almost watery sort of thing - incredibly true-to-life sense impression of the wet ends of cut carnation stems just pulled out from a vase, or a florist's fridge. Couple of hours in and there's a slightly awkward soapy phase as the flower notes (lily and the waxier smell of the carnation's leaves) rise and expand and then begin to fall - but it's brief.

And from then on in things get warmer, drier, woodier and spicier throughout, with the pimento and pepper and nutmeg swelling to the fore, until it's morphed into what's effectively a gentle Oriental with some floral accents. This drydown stage is my favourite part, but I've never experienced anything before which unfolds in this order - usually pepper's the first to hit you in the nose and then die away, so I have no idea how SL worked this magic and managed to make time run in reverse, in terms of scent at least. Really good example of a non-linear scent which evolves strikingly from one kind of fragrance to another.

I don't know many people who would specifically say they really want to smell like carnations (rather than any other flower); maybe a lot of people just take them for granted; carnations are a sort of plain-jane 'workaday' bloom without the glamour of the rose or the exoticism of ylang. But it's a mistake to underrate them, or to assume this scent will just be middle-of-the-road. It may have unfortunate associations for those with strong, bad memories of funerals in France (where carnations are used heavily) or Oxford examinations (where it's traditional to wear carnations.) But luckily I don't have any of those traumas to exorcise, so this one is just a pleasant, quirky, intriguing, rather beautiful thing for me. Wiki tells me that "light red carnations represent admiration, while dark red denote deep love and affection" and I think I might well feel both for this lovely scent.

Sillage is not gigantic, but it's definitely there; longevity not bad at all (8h+). It's pretty sweet, but not too femme for any male who feels adoration for carnation to wear.

ehsankasiri

شروعی یه شدت گلی و زنانه که به مرور با قوت گرفتن ادویه ها زیباتر می شود
-----------
Scent & Qualiy: 8/10
Longevity: 7/10
Sillage: 7/10
Creativity & Uniqueness: 8/10
Affordability: 6/10
-----------
Overall: 7.2/10

Violinplayah

Ohhh this is good! Spicy, sharp and red smelling with a fresh green aura, it’s crazy! A bit 80’s chic to me too, but probably because the clove is reminiscent of Coco. So basically a super hard chic femme circa ‘85 stabbing someone with a fresh carnation.

Bee-young-ka

hey. okay. ow. ow.ouch!
stop beating me with a bunch of carnations!

I think its very fresh and (smash in face with full Bouquet) ahh... peppery I like it...


ahh!! stop hitting me with carnations!


... cold and peppery and carnational-ly as all hell.

I feel like I have walked into a florist and the sales person has pushed me head first into the fridge full of carnations and held me there.

'you like carnations huh? do you bitch?"
wonderfully traumatic.

gelo999

It is very difficult to get the exact scent of the carnation smell, that carnation with a spicy point similar to the nail, warm without becoming axfisiante and that floral and deep nuance of the flower.
And although there is essence of a carnation subspecies, it does not smell exactly the carnation that we all know, this aroma is different, so to imitate it exactly on the part of the perfumers is a very complex task.

In fact, I have tried many fragrances dedicated to the aroma of the carnation and without a doubt "Vitriol" is one of the most achieved fragrances.

Lutens leaves aside the spicy part, the oriental nuances and focuses throughout the evolution of the fragrance in showing us the most floral perception of the ambivalent carnation, a sublime and excellent carnation.

It seems to me that for those who love the scent of the carnation, it is a must, for its quality, composition and performance.

Rating: 9.1

cedar_lea

I love the spicy aspects of carnation so this doesn't disappoint. The floral notes go a little soapy, which is to be expected but I'm not 100% convinced it captures the full beauty of the flower.

Tigi

I received a spray sample of this from a most generous fellow Fragrantican.
This one is spicy, yes! Deep, dank, dark, she reminds me quite a bit of the erstwhile classic Gio by Giorgio Armani. In fact, I'd say this could be her twin sister, easily.
Both my husband and I like this quite a bit.

This is one that, though it does contain cloves, the composition is well-balanced and the cloves do NOT take over on me (unlike the way Chanel Coco EDP does). There is a beautiful complexity that I find haunting, almost heart-breakingly beautiful.

Edit: I did find an excellent deal on a Full Bottle but I gifted it the day it got here. On me, Vitriol D'oeillet is nice; on my father, however, she smells amazing!!!

Waldina80

Blind bought this. Tried it on, and immediately realize this is far too masculine for me. Just no. Cannot do it. Too heavy, too peppery, too strong, too intensely male. So I handed it over to hubby. It's far better suited to him, masculine, yet fresh. Peppery & spicy, with a veil of fresh greenery. On him, it's like fresh potent carnations, wet & green, and dries down spicy. On my skin, I hated it, but I adore it on my hubby. He has never had such a pricey fragrance before, and I'm happy he has been wearing it for no occasion at all, other than just to enjoy it.

SuzanneS

A clear sharp carnation and pepper scent. The spices augment the green carnation. Its absolutely splendid layered with Bas de Soie.

jadetrail51

Like most of Serge Luten's creations, this morphs quite a bit from the initial spray of sharp razor like clove and pepper spice daggers. The name of this perfume explains that quite adequately. The sweetness of the banana tinged ylang ylang coupled with the Carnations and Lillys blend into a lovely classic slightly powdery veil.
This doesn't last long on me, but what it dries down to is a far cry from where it begins. Like another reviewer pointed out, the dry down echos the impossible to find "Iris Gris" by Jacques Fath.

Sonichka#2

Unfortunately I only get pepper in Vitriol d'oeillet. Pepper. More pepper.
So much pepper that I actually feel it on my tongue and I want to brush my teeth!
I adore the scent of oeillets/dianthus/carnation but it's pretty well hidden here.
Fairly masculine. I suspect it's probably great on a man. Lasts forever on my skin.
Good quality scent, but not for me.

zena.ineta

Try to mix it with "Fille en Aiguilles" by Lutens!

mrsg34

This is beautiful, an abundance of clovey, spicy carnation goodness.It lasts and is suitable for any season I feel although its approaching winter right now in good old blighty and I'm loving it. Although it's spicy and peppery I get the floral in this too, subdued violet and a wearable, non screechy lily and the carnation is gorgeous. I'm honestly turning into a right little Lutens whore ha ha really enjoying alot of his scents right now )

shushkin

Gorgeous spicey vibrant fragrance. I love spices and carnations are just divine. They are brought together beautifully in the cheerful fragrance. These are strong notes but they are softened with the sweetness of lily perhaps. I would have gone for fb but for the unfortunate soapy closing on my skin. Moderate sillage and longevity. I think Oriza L Legrands dianthus fragrance is better.

Enrosadira

è un profumo che faccio fatica a capire!
Apertura quasi acidula, secca, fredda, maschile. Poi emerge il pepe rosa. È un profumo minimal, deciso, dall’anima forte e da gentleman (a tratti mi ricorda persino il profumo delle camicie appena lavate e stirate). Allo stesso tempo è leggermente mitigato dalle spezie, che col passare del tempo si sentono sempre di più. Sembra quasi che racconti la storia di una vita: l’asprezza della giovinezza, il rigore equilibrato e corposo della maturità e la morbidezza sfaccettata della vecchiaia.

keiserkarel

in my opinion, this is the summer Lutens! very bright and perky like the sunbeam of summer days. imagine colorful paprika and chili peppers surrounded by exotic flowers! the color of orange or yellow would be more suitable than smokey violet. If La Fille de Berlin is for winter, this is the opposite one.

bbao

First I tried this, I thought... this place has some nice air refreshers! But only later did I realise, that I was smelling myself smelling nice :) It's not something irritating or annoying, it's.. OK

Cassiano

Vitriol d’oeillet was released in 2011 and its name means, in English, "Vitriol of Carnation". Vitriol is the name given to sulphates, especially, to sulfuric acid. In other words, Serge Lutens wanted to portray, through this perfume, what would be the sulphate of the Carnation flower, used in the lapels of the classic visual of several men, those considered dandies.

Serge defines the concept of this fragrance saying: "Take a carnation and a sufficient quantity of Cayenne pepper. Firmly drive it into the very center, using the "nails" of a clove. Before committing the final act of violence, let wallflower throw in a few punches".

Vitriol d’oeillet has notes of carnations, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, pink pepper, and cayenne pepper (the name comes from Cayenne in French Guiana), also known as chilli pepper. Still brings lilies, ylang-ylang, woods, and wallflower (Erysimum).

On the skin, Vitriol d’oeillet is a pleasant surprise. It has a retro air, reminiscent of the smell of violets with camphoraceous nuances. It was made for both genres, but has a more masculine aura, in my opinion. Its fragrance is distinct and innovative. In fact, I've never felt a male floral similar to this one, until the present moment. I love its nocturnal and seductive aspect. The evolution is very subtle and the fragrance remains with nuances of metallic and spicy violets, in addition to a slightly sweet base. It has good projection and lasts for hours on the skin.

Those who don’t like clove-scented fragrances that remind of the medicine used by dentists, no need to worry, because the clove is not as present as the carnation in this perfume.

The lovers of floral scents that have a strong smell of violets, as Hommage a L'homme (Lalique), for example, have everything to fall in love with Vitriol d’oeillet.

Cauda Pavonis

A cool, intense violet; hints of powder and blueberry (a cool colored berry). Sweet. Even though it's cool there's a vanilla note in there. Little old lady wearing powder and violet perfume. Very interesting fragrance - there's something that almost itches the nose (the pepper?), slightly off-putting but unusual and fascinating. Dries down to soft, spicy powder - it warms up a touch but still on the cool side. Long lasting but in about 2 hours fades until only detectable on being very close to the wrist.

desdemona7

Oh my,this is nice!! The Sephora in Toronto has started carrying the Lutens line and at Christmas I tried a few on various parts of both arms. On the way driving home I kept thinking something smells Really good on me, so I have just now returned and purchased a whole bottle. I seem to have strange body chemistry, because despite the negative reviews of this frag, on me this is heavenly! Sweet, vanilla-ish violets with a touch of carnation and pepper. I also like Lutens' Miel de Bois, which most people can't tolerate. This particular scent is not overwhelming like a great deal of Lutens perfumes, but on me it is very soft, clovey, and like a beautiful violet dream. Brings to mind fairies in a sunlit glen on a dewy morning. Sillage is moderate, but longevity is excellent, upwards of 8-10 hours. Very high quality and a keeper!
10/10

lilymorena

Hummmm sweet flowers with pepper. Ok it doesn't sound lovely but it is just gorgeus. So far the most feminine, flowery scent I've tryed from Lutens. It is as someone had mashed violets in a sugary syrup. Then added some pepper, pinkpepper plus some nutmerg and other spices. I can smell it in whiffs from a few drops/spritz/sample. As other Lutens it is impossible to wash it out and sillage is really amazing. It goes to my "want list".

Scentmad

Smells almost identical to the original JF legendary Iris Gris. Wonderfully ethereal. Opens with a strong chilly violet note and warms to a close copy of Iris Gris. Breathy carnation with the merest hint of clove on my skin. The notes are supported by a lovely spicy backdrop that remains in the back and isn't overpowering. A completely unexpected delight. I am in perfume heaven.

thesheppardess

At the beginning, I pick up a spicy violet, which is quite pleasant. Unfortunately it is all downhill after that. After half an hour, I am left with a sour but syrupy odour.
I adore the scent of dianthus/carnations in the garden. I cannot pick up anything in this frag that smells like them.

sleepy*weasel

Not for me. I usually love carnation scents but this is just odd, I don't get much of the floral, but I do get peppery soap (if that's a thing) and some musk. Really I wanted to like it, but I hate it, and I'm not alone I see, so that's interesting! I've tried it twice and it's just an epic fail on me - 2/10. Next!

Q80

pepper Paprika and chili pepper washed with water and soap and didn't rinse well so the soap foam is still there, and next to this a bouquet of flowers (mainly carnations) and cloves are splashed all over. quite bizarre and rare. well blended.

cloyd42

Harsh, cheap and artificial smelling. Unfortunately the ingredients are good so it lasts forever. Vitriol (abuse or rancor) is a perfect word for this stuff. Now that IFRA has banned most of the ingredients that make perfume wonderful, any chance we can get them to go after that now most boring of cliches--pink pepper?

Sillage: screechy
Duration: impossible to scrub
Fabulosity: brake fluid
Price to value ratio: terrible
1/10

Lana148

In a heart - Carnation flower, wrapped up in peppery, spicy
fog. From spices, pepper stands out the most and then: paprika, clove, nutmeg - unusual combination. This fragrance is from "love it" or "hate it" category. Personally, it makes me nauseous, but I appreciate it because it's different.

Planet_X

Alluring walk towards the dentist) Its happy spicy medicinal, with very peppery carnation and very clovy wallflower. This guy knows how to make fun even in most unpleasant situations, optimistic and charismatic, good for him!
Very likeable fragrance.

daithi

Smells like perfume from another era. This gothic spicy carnation is one of the best creations signed by Serge Lutens. I can imagine Oscar Wilde wearing this.

aquisr1

I really like this scent. In a nutshell, it reminds me of a beautiful expensive soap. Very clean with just a hint of spice. Not extremely strong, but I could imagine smelling this on someone and thinking,"wow, they smell great". Not like any other scent i have found.

Fragrantlife

Clove and pepper. Then some indistinct and faint flowers humming in the background. It is really about spices. I get the concept of the carnation. I even smell it but, at the end of the day, it is all about clove and pepper. Yet somehow, it is very beautiful. It has both a vintage and modern feel. Not exactly mainstream sexy, but yet... My husband is crazy about it.

All in all, don't be fooled by the name's funeral and oppressive suggestiveness. It is an unusual, intriguing, yet very opinionated, warm and happy juice.

Jack_Hunter

A peppery carnation with cloves is what I'm mainly picking up. What has been done to the carnation note, it can be really beautiful in a fragrance but here they have ruined it.

As time goes by other floral notes come into play making the main spicy peppery carnation smell like soapy bubblegum.

Thumbs down with this one.

Miss LaCreevy

More clove and a soapy rose than carnation. Plus some pepper. It is not loud, but rather sharp than soft. If you want a warm, spicy carnation, Vitriol is not your chosen perfume. I think it deserves better critics than it actually got.
I love it in hot weather, its soapy sharpness is refreshing.

Majesty

The opening of Vitriol d´oeillet reminds me of ammonia,it´s exactly thechemical smell of hair colour..Lots of pepper which initially burns your nose and then settles down to a carnation-spice combo. The drydown on my skin smells like violet although it´s not listed. Powdery violet with some spice which stays no longer than 2 hours before it disappears completely. Harsh and chemical opening with a spicy powdery drydown. Average lasting power and very close to skin sillage.

leathermountain

Red Hots dissolved in Grenadine syrup, captured in a very slightly melted plastic cup. Perhaps Carnation Temper Tantrum would fit.

asheble93

Serge Lutens' Vitriol d’œillet:

A beautifully delicate and refined addition to Lutens; this is a soft spoken, effervescent, and balanced floriental in every sense of the word.

Right out of the gate, carnation and ylang ylang hits you like a wall, along with pink pepper, all of which last the entire life of the scent.

I really enjoy carnation and this is one of my favorites, just because of the tension between spice and floral. Towards the end of the drydown the clove bubbles to the top and gives a little more foundation to the overall composition.

Overall:
7.8/10

freddinos

This in my opinion is not safe blind buy territory. The top notes were a spicy blend of pink and black pepper with chilly peppers, and towards the middle a bit of carnation and clove were added. The drydown was pure lilies on my skin, and I totally dislike this flower due to its funeral association in my mind. Overall I did not like Vitriol d'Oeillet, but I have to admit it is very unique and has good lasting power.

Houdini4

Well I never!!! Got some Serge Lutens samples (hot off the press so to speak) from my new friend at the perfume counter. It makes a lot of sense to be charming and flirtatious with these ladies and you get loads of free stuff! haha
Anyway...I thought when I quickly looked through them initially that this was the violet one...Bois des violettes? I think that's the one? I was familiar anyway and as such left it until now to try.
Turns out it was Vitriol d oelliet and I was excited to try a new Serge Lutens but my heart sank when I learned of the dominant carnation note.
I often think to myself that I don't know a great deal about florals or identifying floral notes but as it happens I know quite a few. Carnation is one that I can instantly picture in my minds eye or rather my minds nose!
It can easily turn sour easily so i wasn't holding out much hope for this one.
You know what though?
I found myself really enjoying it, what a great combination. This is precisely what I think of when the term 'Floriental' is banded about this is a great example.
The florals are strong in the opening but just as it's about to turn into a right off the attack of entire spice rack hits you. Not to imply that it's harsh because it isn't and you get a bit of everything at different times.
It's constantly tiptoeing between the two, then teetering on the edge...then back again...It's a beautiful dance.
It certainly changes in the drydown but somehow retains its character, I feel the base might be a little sandlewood and cedar although they're not listed here so maybe not?
This is the kind of fragrance that makes me feel like a proper fragrance head because something tells me I shouldn't like it... but I do because it's very interesting indeed.
Totally unisex and actually quite masculine on me, huge longevity I mean up there with some pure perfume.
This is great and a masculine floral I would wear.

MLK

This perfume is so beautifully elegant with warm notes of carnation (my first carnation fragrance and I am very impressed). Also included are my other favourite notes namely, lily and ylang ylang. I can't detect any cloves or nutmeg on me when I wear it (which I think is a good thing). This fragrance feels very feminine and I can't imagine a male wearing this but some may be able to pull it off.

I love the softness of how this fragrance settles on my skin after about 20 minutes. The opening is quite strong but I still love it. This is one of my favourite Serge Lutens masterpieces and I am slowly collecting quite a few as the ingredients in his fragrances are top class.

mizz.cindy

My first experience with a carnation perfume was the scent of Potion body lotion by LUSH. If you know that one, you'll know that most carnation fragrances appear tame or bland next to that heavy spicy and almost medicinal cloves/ carnation concoction. I absolutely love it.
What I love about carnation in general is that it has a mixture of warmth, sweetness, spiciness and just a hint of dust. It can give an old fashioned vibe to a perfume, but that is definitely not the case of Vitriol d'Oeillet.
In fact, V d'O smells very modern for a carnation perfume, thanks to the heavy dose of pepper that accentuated the already spicy carnation even more, but also takes the medicinal cloves to the background.
Thanks to the ylang- ylang, the perfume is never too spicy or too sharp. The banana smell of ylang- ylang takes away any sharp edges Vitriol d'Oeillet could otherwise have, and balances the whole fragrance out.
I also detect some other sweet florals, the lily most dominant, and she's there to take away the dustiness of the carnation.
For me, Vitriol d'Oeillet is all about the perfect balance between the spiciness and sweetness, with the carnation as the beautiful center of attention. It's a warm spicy floral perfume, perfect for fall. Very different from other carnation perfumes, because it's very soft and so very Lutens. Love!

degauss

I almost cried when I first smelled it, no exaggeration. It's so unearthly pure, somehow. Not clean, not fresh, not anything identifiable even. Like a deep well of cool alien liquid, alive, and then someone drops a single clove into it. I'm pretty sure this is one of those inexplicable personal things, but this scent just feels like all the most important, private memories replayed at once; like an epiphany.

danceforjoy

While this perfume doesn't work particularly well on me, I don't intend this to be a bad review. For me this was an Act I and an Act II fragrance. But Act I, which could be named PEPPERS! carried on far too long, to the tune of nearly 2 hours. If I liked pepper on my skin this would please me immensely. I did perceive other notes in there briefly during this time, an alternate pepper, cloves, but mostly just a dominating pepper.

At about 1:40 minutes in, with a poof the peppery scent of carnation finally began to take the stage. This has developed a lovely, powdery floral with a peppery undertone, but 100 minutes is a long time to wait for a scent to get somewhere you want it to be. But if you like a peppery journey, I highly recommend this, because it has a lovely destination.

4 hours in and it has retreated that it is somewhat close to my skin, but it is still present.

AyameSapphire

Carnation and clove are the last notes that remain on the skin, really interesting cocktail of ingredients. Reminds me of soap... Need it!

woodlandwalk

I'm quite enjoying all the hot pepper in this. There is a sort of carnation, or the idea of a carnation (as another poster describes it - carnation on steroids!).

This could be good for snowy, icy days as it's quite nose tickling. At the same time there's a clean feel that would be quite reviving in a hot climate - I'm imagining sight-seeing in a hot city. For me the strongest spice note is black pepper followed closely by clove, this blends with the ylang ylang and lily to create a sweet, soapy hot perfume, odd as that sounds. It reminds me of a Crabtree and Evelyn triple milled luxury soap that's had the volume turned up to 11.

I do detect carnation underlying the spice, it feels like an oily note somehow and add adds a calm base. It calms down to a warm spicy soap then fades out completely after a few hours as there doesn't seem to be any resin, wood or musk to give it more longevity

marios4

If you like s very long lasting carnation try Garofano, of Lorenzo Villoresi....Vitriol d’œillet on my skin is very short lasting, and the price doesn't justify the purchase, instead other Serge Lutens's fragrances...

edooardo

It reminds me of the backyard where I used to play during my childhood.

There were a lot of roses and carnations, whose petals I used to smell. Unfortunately now a days the Carnation is a rare aroma on the shelves.

Vitriol shows the depth of this rich flower that we miss.

Vitriol is a blast of cold carnations, refreshing and elegant, almost acid. Really refreshing and addictive.
Worth every penny

Ponyfields

Quite possibly the single most disgusting thing I have ever smelt in my life. I tried this before I went out to a bar, and a little bit of this rubbed off on the sleeve of my coat. My coat now stinks of wood smoke and salami (I'm guessing this is a combination of the paprika and the pepper and cloves; if anyone else can suggest otherwise I would be most grateful as I would very much like to avoid this sort of smell for the rest of my life.) It was just as bad on my skin, and I literally gagged.

I cannot even begin to reconcile this to the other reviews on the site. I absolutely detested this fragrance and had an incredibly unpleasant experience trying it. It smells remarkably like what I imagine a forest fire would smell like, if most of the little woodland animals didn't make it.

On the other hand, the sillage was decent and it has stayed on my coat for ooo... three days now. I'm going to have to have it dry cleaned.

Heverton

It starts with a very evident peppery note, specially pink pepper mixed with an already dominant (and a
little bit powdery) flowery aroma that just shines in a very beautiful way here in this Lutens making me
think about Ambre Gris as sfonativeboy said, given the presence of a sweet aura around the opening.

I don't get the clove in here, maybe it is fainted on my skin, or maybe I'm too used to the high dose of clove
from Musc Ravageur with all its depth. Trough time the fragrance develops into a total sweet floral combination with a hint of powdery attached to it. A very good fragrance but not for my personal use I guess.

rdickey

The first whiff I got was Old Spice, then it settled down to a very powdery carnation-type aroma. Nice, but not my 'cup-of-tea'.

megank4

A nice spicy floral, but not specifically carnation to my point of view.

missk

A very important note is missing in this scent pyramid, and that is carnation. For many critics, Vitriol d’œillet failed to impress, but I'm going to add my two cents and say that I actually enjoyed wearing Vitriol d’œillet and am quite prepared to give it a favourable review.

Carnation is a gloriously rich floral scent, which in my opinion doesn't feature enough in fragrances these days. Vitriol d’œillet displays the beauty of this flower without overdoing it. However, clove and pink pepper do tend to be the most dominate notes in this composition.

Vitriol d’œillet, is in my opinion, the feminine equivalent of Givenchy's Xeryus Rouge. Red-hot, fiery peppers spice up both these fragrances with the same kind of allure found in Peruvian cuisine. It's like a taste explosion on the skin.

When I think of Serge Lutens, I usually think of big, bold scents, however in this particular case, Vitriol d’œillet is quite subtle in terms of sillage. It lays low, but pleasantly so. A touch of smooth powderiness stops this fragrance from becoming too spicy and hot.

I am rather enjoying the unique nature of this fragrance, and have worn it over two consecutive days. The way it develops and morphs on the skin is quite commendable in terms of composition and approach. It's different to say the least and also quite versatile. I'm rather glad that this is a unisex fragrance, because it's a scent I'd enjoy on both myself and my significant other.

The longevity of Vitriol d’œillet was really impressive, lasting a good eight hours or more. It's even difficult to scrub off in the shower, which was a good sign. This fragrance's reception has been varied, so be prepared to either love it or hate it. I truly hope that it works for more people because I personally think it deserves more attention.

glorious1

I live in SW Florida. I can't wait for cool weather to wear scents in particular so I wear them ALL YEAR whenever the mood strikes me. I get used to hot weather and spicy orientals.......whatever, whenever.

talnyc

12/13/11: I tried this at Barney's and I really like it. I was given a sample, so I am happy about that. I am not sure why the note of Carnation is not shown above, but tuberose is also a top note.

The top notes are wonderful, but it's middle notes are spicy and I think conflicts with the top notes. It's bottom notes are more woodsy and the spice disappears (at least on me).

I think this is a very nice fall/winter scent.

It you are into blending scents, this fragrance is great with Byredo Bal D'Afrique. You will really love it.

Let me know what you think.

chickenpotpie

Amazingly I thought the scent would smell hot considering the notes. Its not, its actually quite a cool and airy smelling juice. I detect an almost violet smell on application. I can smell the nutmeg and clove but its very subdued. I do not smell ANY of the peppers at all. I'm not sure why that is, but its just not there for me at all.


After about an hour I get a soapy powder smell. Its not laundry soap, but a very high end hand made body soap. Its amazingly clean and not at all annoying. I get the sweet pop of the clove here and there but again, its very soft.

At 4-5 hours its just about disappeared on me. I still get a bit of a sizzle from the nutmeg and clove but I've got to really look for it.


In Conclusion I think its quite lovely and I like that fact that while you notice the spice, it dosen't overwhelm the senses. There's nothing at all traditional about this scent, and belies what even the notes suggests!

Certainly its a great one to have in the wardrobe for those times when a good personal scent is needed as a pick me up. I can see this one being suited for men and women. Sometimes unisex can bend in one direction or another, but I see this one staying pretty much in the middle.

I haven't tried most of the Serge Lutens line yet But I've heard some really interesting things about it. This one is on the wish list at the moment.

Iris Aistork

I feel too much camphor and black pepper, that makes me almost sneezing ))) VO resembles Serge Noir, but from its worst side. I love SN, and VO, unfortunately, is extremely peppery for me. Disappointed, as I was waiting from Lutens for smth more flowery and orientally warm, but not so harsh (

HappyShopper123

I've finally found a Serge Lutens fragrance that suits me! This is a gorgeous mixture of sweetness and spice. The notes are multifaceted and seem to change every so often. I'll definitely be investing in a bottle!

suile

Liked this one more than I thought I would. It's milder and more wearable than the notes would indicate. The reviews below can't really be improved on by me. I'm on the cusp about buying it, but will certainly test again and give it more thought.

sfonativeboy

I read fragrance blogs that this would be a Powdery CARNATION fragrance...
I imagined it .....to be a very modern take on the classic BELLODGIA by CARON
which I love for its in your face CARNATION notes....
softened by VANILLA, MUSK and CLOVE.

Boy was I pleasantly wrong.
This fragrance is really spicy. !!!!
PINK PEPPER... PEPPER... PIMENTO(PAPRIKA) are ingredients listed
and they are the are the strongest notes that hit my nose first
they then remain there tingling
much the way Jalapenos peppers tingle
the lips and tongue
This sounds ..terrible,unless you happen to like that kind of FIERY sensation
SERGE LUTENS manages to soften this fiery concotion
with CARNATION FLOWERS and a hint of CLOVE
The NUTMEG is a hidden note .. I could not detect.

The fragrance that it brings to mind for its similar
unique spiciness
If i could suggest such a thing...
AMBRE GRIS by BALMAIN

Both are spicy......and peppery and very masculine in
an upfront manner.
however, Vitriol turns into a light powdery spicy fragrance
which then develops into yes...
a sharp woody scent
and back again ....

A juxtoposition of scents...I know.
a most unusual feat in of itself .
that in the end .. is very unisex !!!

Bravo SERGE!!
You won me over again....with your complexity!

Sugandaraja

Vitriol's top notes come on, not with carnation or clove, but with what smells like black pepper and pink bubblegum. Slowly this fades to a transparent, violet-y drydown that never quite loses its pepper note. There's a certain woodiness to this scent, but it's mild and elusive, like some distant hint of Serge Noir hidden in the fragrance. It lasts very well, but stays light in sillage.

I'm rather neutral on this scent. It's neither as daring as I expect from a Lutens, nor as rich. That being said, it's not without interest or badly constructed.

OlfractalInfemme

The notes above don't begin to describe the depth of this fragrance. The initial note is iris. When it dries, I inhale and I am in an exotic place, perusing antique books lined up on mahogany bookshelves, my lips sticky with mango juice, my mouth remembering smoked chili and spice- cooled by the breathing herb garden just outside the window.

*sophi*

It's oriental spicy...clove and carnation seem very prominent in it like the title suggests(vivid-acid carnation).The heart note of nutmeg adds sweetness in it and measures the spiciness a bit...
good lasting power and this gives the sense of being a Luten's creation all the way!

*tested free sample

Ártemis

I also got my free sample this morning and promptly tried :)
Nice flowery/spicy scent! The opening is more masculine for me, but then it turns into powdery spicy unisex clove. When it dries down it becomes confortable and soapy. It is a linear frag and you can smell the clove and pepper notes from the beginning until the end.

ocean.lake

I am so lucky receiving this free give away sample from Serge Lutens this morning. This fragrance is really spicy. You can even imagine from the notes (clove, pepper, nutmeg, pink pepper, paprika).

It's warm and would be most suitable for winter. As for summer wearing, IMO the drydown will probably energize your day. It develops into sharp woody/cedar compartment with a slight hint of flower. Overall, the clove is quite prominent till the end.

 
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